Chocolate Rat
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Update: The removal of the clutch lever is simple although I had to be carefull not to lose the flying springs. The one bit that is still beating me is the removal of the piston from the stock lever. The little black plastic bolt head will tighten or loosen but I can’t seem to remove it and thus remove the wider cylindrical metal pin. Not sure if that makes sense but if it does and someone in the know is reading this then any hints would be great.
I’ve been doing some digging into this as I have an interest in getting one myself. It seems that European law, which we are still and will probably remain subject to, states that the number plate must extend beyond the rear wheel when sold new. This means that it will not pass the factory pre delivery inspection or MVSA test unless the holder is in such a place. Once you have it you can make amendmends within certain parameters. It must be near vertical and as close to the rear as possible but it doesn’t state that it has to be at the very back. It will pass a MOT like that providing the plate itself is legal but that’s a separate matter. Weirdly it’s not permitted to be on the right hand side but I can’t find out why.
Hope that helps, it’s certainly reassured me.
Not to detract from why the rust is there in the first place, which is a perfectly valid question but have you tried a small amount of ACF50 on the affected region? I have used this on a number of bikes and it can help attack the corrosion that’s started as well as prevent future occurences. You don’t need much though!
I was considering one of those too. I’m not sure they are illegal – the law only dictates general position e.g rear (as opposed to front), size and orientation. Yamaha and Harley also sell these as road legal options so I doubt they would risk selling something as legal if it’s not. If some feel it’s a rip off then that’s a shame but it certainly looks the part.
