Getting the ball rolling……
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G’day all – early adopter from Surrey here.
I took delivery of one of the very first Scramblers, registered in July 2018. It’s got the stage 1 factory remap plus some carbon extras. I’m used to riding a Tuono 1100 Factory and a Multistrada 1200 PP so it took a bit of getting used to the semi off-road tyres and difference in overall all-round performance. It never goes off-road but I like the fact I’m not going to lose my licence when using it.
As it’s a third bike I did 500 miles in the first year and thought it was pretty good to ride. Then I had Stuart do the first service and he adjusted the suspension settings – BIG difference! It’s a much better ride and I’d recommend anyone else to have theirs done too. Apparently, a lot of the early bikes were set up poorly from the factory. I don’t know how many.
Improvements:
I’d like it to have a better front brake but I’ll never get around to upgrading the system.The clutch hydraulics are a poor design. The bike had to go back to the factory after one week to have the entire clutch master and slave cylinder system replaced as it was losing pressure and causing “clutch drag”. Now I still have to pull the lever ALLLL the way in for full disengagement (even though it’s properly set on the adjustment wheel). – Anyone else find this?
The engine breather (coming out of the cam cover on RHS) gets overwhelmed with oil mist and drips down onto the crankcase and back onto the shock spring etc. A common fault I hear. If the fuel tank wasn’t there then the breather could be rotated a bit so that the excess oil would drain back into the engine.
If the designers weren’t spending their time on the next slight variation of the same bike then they might be able to solve this problem. A re-shaped shallow/flat breather rather than the fat conical one might do it or a kit to reposition the existing one remotely. I’m going to experiment with another idea next year and will post the result here.The tyre pressures gradually reduce too much over time. It can only be rubbish OEM inner tubes. (No loss via the valves and no nails in tyres). Both F and R losing approx 1.5 PSI per week but you wouldn’t know it by looking at the tyres. The sidewall carcasses are so stiff that they still look properly inflated even when there’s about 5 PSI left inside. – So check those pressures!
I want some carbon lower fork protectors. Apparently the factory started to market these but had to withdraw them due to poor quality. Anyone from the factory care to reply if/when they will be available?
It should have come with a proper, slim full length chain guard as standard – not the useless short carbon-extra blingy thingy.
Other than that, I’m ‘appy.
Initially the breather did mist some oil from the breather filter, but apparently the engine is slightly overfilled from new. I however did move the filter down near the chain via some silicone hose, so any oil mist goes towards the chain.
The tubes do loose pressure, but I added puncture repair liquid, which seems to stop this.
I did purchase the lower fork guards when they first came out and the quality was good,maybe later ones were less so.
I agree that a slim full length chain guard in carbon fibre would be welcome and prevent excess fling from the chain.
One point for me is that the exhaust note is too loud and slightly annoying over distance, even with ear plugs! Maybe some form of adjustable/removeable baffling would solve this.I have one of these scramblers. Number 211
Not done enough miles yet to fully appreciate its good & bad bits. I want to change some parts if I’m allowed under warranty rules. As a complete enduro/dirtbike rider I find that the suspension is solid. Every bump in the road resinates up through me back. I Also really need to Change/raise the handlebars as the riding position for me is to far forward. (I’m a sit up a beg rider) motocross style. The turning circle is to me very large. My other bikes turn on a sixpence. I also think some other kind of rear indicators should be fitted. (Which is on me list)
“SO apart from all that“
I love the sound,look,speed & cant wait for this covid 19 to go away so I can really do something on it worth while..
My plan on this scrambler is to go around the Isle of Wight on some of the great coastal roads (military road)
BGgamboz,
Regarding the suspension, when you have it serviced ask the technician to adjust the suspension and advise on tyre pressures. The bikes are set up on the hard side and the adjustment of suspension and tyre pressures makes a world of difference!
Morning!
Good to see some early posts!
Re. Oil Breather;
We have made a production assembly change on the orientation of this breather, our service techs implement when on service visits. The overflow is a little inconsistent from engine tolerance variation, however a relocation kit could be a potential option.
Re. Carbon Fork Guards;
The quality from the previous supplier was not good, at all. If there’s enough demand then we can certainly revisit as an accessory!
Enjoy the ride!
Hi all,
#Sigmaf – Since my initial post last year it seems that the carbon fork guards are now readily available as I fitted a pair back in late January. They look good.
For anyone buying a set, make sure you get some proper length screws sent with them as the original ones on my bike weren’t long enough.I’m in agreement with the suspension, I’m riding a Flat Tracker, it’s far to firm, I think the Spitfires are so light that the suspension middle settings are simply too stiff, I have adjusted the preload on the forks by winding it out and softened the damping, it improved the front end, the rear shock I wound the adjuster to the softest setting, still too hard in my opinion, I wonder if the Ohlin shock would sort the problem? I’m in for the 1st service on the 25th June, so will see what the expert thinks.
Johnybigarms.
Let us know what the feed back is after your 1st service regarding the suspension..
Mine definitely needs tweaking to a softer setting.
BG‘Scuse my ignorance here but is the hard suspension the reason the front end is quite flighty when hitting bumps at speed…quite disconcerting at times when it shakes it’s head over rough roads!
Yes, you need to reduce the preload on the rear shock as there is zero static sag. I reduced it by 2 turns (13 stone) and it stabilises the steering, especially if you drop the fork preload to zero. Low tyre pressures make the weave worse too.
I still only use 2/3 fork travel so it needs thinner oil or a softer spring – 4000 mile service on Thursday so I will ask.Thanks Scrambler126, That’s useful. I never adjust suspension aside from pressing button on the GS! I’m just over 12 stone so I’ll try maybe a little less than 2…not sure how much a turn equates to weight wise. Tyre pressures always checked so theybwould hopefully not cause a problem.
Thanks againSeems easier said than done…loosened the grub screw, but can hardly get a c spanner in there to do anything, frame in the way…
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